17414 Bothell Everett Hwy • Mill Creek, WA 98012
425-482-5276

April is truly the start of the NW gardening season.

 Lawn Care
April is the prime month for spring lawn care. Start the process of moss removal, aerating and applying a thin layer of compost to get the soil ready. In the middle of the month, overseed if necessary or apply Dr. Earth’s Super Natural Lawn Fertilizer.

Weeds
Our mild damp springs encourage the growth of pesky annual weeds. Get out your trusty circle hoe and get them out before they set seed. Apply Concern corn gluten meal, a natural preemergent herbicide to prevent new weeds from germinating. Dig out perennial weeds like dandelions before they have a chance to flower. Apply a layer of mulch after these weeding chores are done to retard weed development later.

Vegetables
If you planted a fall or winter cover crop, April is the time to work this beneficial green manure into the soil. If not, work in a thick layer of composted manure or Gardner & Bloom Harvest Supreme to give your veggies a good start. Plant out cool season starts like peas, salad greens, onions and potatoes now but wait until soils warm and danger of frost is past for warm season crops like tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. There is still time to start these heat lovers from seed.

Japanese Maples
Li’l Sprout’s excellent selection of Japanese maples are in stock and ready to be planted now. Select from dozens of varieties for size, form and early spring color. Our knowledgeable nursery sales staff will assist you in picking the perfect maple for your garden.
Bring overwintered geraniums and fuchsias and other tender plants out from winter hibernation. Refresh potting soil if necessary, water well and bring them into the light in a sheltered location. Be sure to protect from late frosts and allow them to harden off gradually before they are placed into their new summer homes.

Select from a huge range of perennials and flowering shrubs as they become available to add early color to the landscape. Rhodies and azaleas, columbine, poppies and bleeding hearts and many others are at their peak and ready for planting. And now is an ideal time for transplanting existing shrubs and perennials or dividing late season perennials.

Plan now for colorful summer hanging baskets. A wide range of colorful annuals and basket stuffers will be available to create your own masterpiece.

Our big beautiful blooming hanging baskets have arrived!
Will bloom all spring through summer.

BAREFOOT TREES & SHRUBS 25% OFF
while supplies last

ROSES ARE IN!

Roses bloom lusciously from mid-May to frost. Their glorious colors and lovely fragrance blend well with other perennials and shrubs in any sunny, well-drained garden site. Despite their reputation, you’ll find they’re fairly easy to grow and give your garden lots of interest for your efforts.

Choosing a Rose 
Recent rose introductions have provided rose-growing amateurs and pros alike with more choices than ever. The old-fashioned beauty and rich perfume of David Austin’s English roses are a wonderful new addition to the rose repertoire. Floribunda and shrub roses have numerous, smaller blossoms per stem (an instant bouquet) and grow 3-5 feet tall. Hybrid teas are the formal, large-flowered, long-stemmed choice for cutting, and grow 4-6 feet tall. Rugged rugosa roses are known for their fragrance, disease resistance, ability to withstand coastal growing conditions and the huge rosehips that often appear while the plant is still blooming; they can grow to about 6 feet tall and wide. Climbing roses are wonderful for covering an unsightly fence, old building or scrambling up into a tree. Li’l Sprout’s rose varieties are especially well-suited to growing in the Puget Sound region; we emphasize those that are easiest to grow, with good disease resistance, you will be successful with.
Location 
Roses require a sunny location with at least 6 hours of sun a day, well-drained soil, and good air circulation. Roses may be grown in containers as well: miniatures could be planted in containers 14″ or larger; larger-growing varieties would require a container approximately 18″-20″ in size. Containers can be of any material-wood, clay, ceramic, plastic, concrete-but must have drainage holes.
Planting 
Dig a rough-sided hole twice as wide as the rootball, and only as deep as the rootball. Mix super-phosphate OR bone meal in the bottom of the hole. Remove the pot and carefully set the plant into the hole. Be certain the grafted crown is above ground level. Mix a shovelful or two of compost to the soil dug out of the hole; fill in the hole with the soil/compost mixture, tamping gently to settle the ground. Water well, adding Up-start to ease transplant shock and help the rose establish. Mulch with 1-2″ of organic matter to suppress weeds and conserve moisture, taking care to leave the base of the plant free of mulch. Allow newly planted roses to root in place for four to six weeks before applying any fertilizer.
Care 
Roses need a consistent supply of water, along with good drainage. Rugosas are an exception and need only be watered the first year until they are established. Most roses need about an inch of water a week to keep blooming well. Water deeply, thoroughly-then allow the soil to dry out. Never allow rose plants to become so stressed they wilt. Apply water to the ground only, keeping the foliage dry, to keep diseases to a minimum.
Four to six weeks after planting, feed with a complete rose fertilizer. Or feed regularly from late March through August with a complete, balanced rose food. Avoid use of fertilizers with systemic insecticide mixed in and handle insect pests separately as they appear.
Common problems include aphids, black spot, mildew and rust. Aphids are best washed off with a hose or squished by hand. If they persist, insecticidal soap used as directed works well. Black spot, mildew and rust are fungal diseases that can be lessened in a number of ways. Good air circulation and garden sanitation are crucial. Remove spent blooms and keep the ground clean of fallen leaves, especially if diseased. We carry fungicides to help in the control of rose diseases. Follow label directions for best results.
In our climate, roses often bloom well into November. To assist their transition into dormancy, snip off leaves in October. Use loose, lightweight organic matter for winter mulching protection (straw, bark, sawdust), covering over the graft union about 12-15 ” deep; uncover around March 1st when doing spring pruning. The entire height of tree roses must be protected: a chicken wire cage placed on the ground around the rose and filled with straw or leaves to cover the high graft should protect tree roses through our coldest winters.
Pruning 
In our Puget Sound climate, rose pruning is done in earliest March, after the coldest winter weather has passed. The different types of roses require different pruning attention. New growth may have started which will be pruned off: go ahead and prune anyway! Hybrid Teas and Grandifloras are pruned quite hard, to about 6-12″ from the ground. Leave only the strongest 3-6 canes, cutting out the others completely. Floribundas, shrubs, English roses, antiques and ground covering types are left twiggier and are pruned less severely: to about 15-24″ from the ground. Prune tree roses according to the type of rose grafted on top of the trunk. Climbing roses are not pruned their first two years. Train long, main-framework branches vertically or horizontally; they are usually left intact. In the third year, shorten side branches (growing off the main framework) to about 6-10″. If climbing roses begin to look thin at the bottom with few leaves, cut 1-2 old canes to the ground to encourage new growth. As with pruning of all kinds: dead, diseased and damaged wood is always removed first; then weak and crossing branches are removed. Cut faded blooms back to a five-leaflet leaf.

New for spring 2017
Unique, Hard to Find Trees & Shrubs

Liriodendron tulipifera 
Easy to grow Deciduous tree that grows to 90ft. tall and 50ft. wide. Interesting tulip-like flowers in spring that are yellow with an orange band. A great plant choice for your part shade to sun native garden. Zone 5-9
Magnolia ‘Black Tulip’
Easy to grow deciduous tree that grows to 20ft. tall and 10ft. wide. Amazing 6 inch black-purple blooms in spring. A great plant choice for your sun garden or along a path. Zone 5-9
Magnolia ‘Cleopatra’
Easy growing deciduous tree that grows to 15ft. tall and 7ft. wide. Spectacular 7 inch deep pink-purple flowers early spring. A great plant choice for your sun garden or path. Zone 5-9
Franklinia alatamaha
Easy to grow deciduous tree that grows to 20ft. tall and 15ft. wide. Stunning white flowers with bright yellow center in late spring with spectacular fall color. A great plant choice for a specimen in your part shade to sun garden or container.
Zone 6-9
Ginko biloba ‘Elmwood’ 
Easy to grow deciduous male tree that grows to 20ft. tall and 8ft. wide. Beautiful green, fan shaped leaves. A great plant choice for your part shade to sun garden or container.
Zone 5-8
Cornus sericea Red or Yellow
Easy to grow deciduous shrub that grows to 8ft. tall and 8ft. wide. Spectacular shrub grown for its bright red or yellow stems for winter interest. A great plant choice for your part shade to sun garden or container. Zone 3-7

 Spring bulbs in bloom, ready to plant now.

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